The Bamboo-Smoked Ritual of Singpho Tea

Origins and Historical Significance

The Singpho tribe, residing in Assam and parts of Northeast India, are among India’s earliest tea drinkers. Their tea ritual predates British colonial plantations by centuries, with roots tracing back as early as the 12th century and connections to the Yunnan province of China. Oral traditions and historical accounts reveal that the Singphos brought their tea-making knowledge during their migration from Myanmar and China, making them original custodians of India’s indigenous tea culture.

The discovery of tea by the British in Assam is closely linked to the Singpho tribe. In 1823, Singpho chief Bisa Gam introduced Major Robert Bruce of the East India Company to tea plants in his backyard, marking the beginning of commercial tea cultivation in India. The tribe’s traditional tea, known as phalap, has since become a symbol of their heritage and resilience.

The Ritual: Preparation and Ceremony

The Singpho tea ritual is a meticulous, multi-stage process that transforms fresh tea leaves into a unique, bamboo-smoked brew called phalap or "coin tea":

●      Harvesting: Tea leaves are carefully plucked from tall, wild tea bushes, often grown in the backyards of Singpho households.

●      Pan-Roasting: The leaves are heated in a metal pan until they turn brown, enhancing their flavor and aroma.

●      Sun-Drying: The roasted leaves are spread out and exposed to sunlight and evening dew for several days, further developing their character.

●      Bamboo Smoking: The defining step involves packing the dried leaves tightly into hollow bamboo tubes, which are then smoked over a fire—sometimes for weeks or even months. This infuses the tea with a distinctive smoky, earthy flavor, accented by hints of honey and caramel.

●      Aging and Storage: The smoked tea hardens inside the bamboo, preserving it for years. Small portions are sliced off as needed to brew tea.

●      Brewing: The tea is brewed without milk or sugar, resulting in a golden-orange liquor. The same leaves can be reused for multiple infusions, with the flavor deepening each time.

Cultural Context and Occasions

Phalap is more than just a beverage for the Singpho tribe—it is an integral part of their daily life and social gatherings. The ritual of making and sharing tea is woven into their agricultural calendar and is as significant as paddy cultivation. Tea is traditionally served after meals to aid digestion and is believed to have medicinal properties, contributing to the community’s health and longevity.

Special occasions, such as welcoming guests, community meetings, and festivals, are marked by the sharing of phalap. The ritual is also a gesture of hospitality and respect, with elders often narrating ancestral stories and legends over cups of this unique tea.

Legacy and Preservation

The Singpho tea ritual stands as a testament to India’s indigenous tea heritage. Recognized with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2024, phalap is celebrated for its ancient craftsmanship and cultural significance. Despite the rise of commercial tea, families in Assam’s Singpho villages continue to keep this tradition alive, passing down the art of tea-making through generations